If you are serious about brewing better beer, then read on...
As a Home Brewer Looking To Brew Better Beers, The Most Important Thing You'll Discover is that...
Brewing Better Beer Is Not Just About Learning How To Brew All Grain... Or Water Chemistry... Or Dry Hop... Or Boost Alcohol...
... the best brewers know that balance, drinkability and knowing how to give beers specific WANTED flavors is the key to better brewing...
Dear home brewer,
I once got an email from a fellow home brewer out of Germany who wanted to share an unheard of tip to better prime and bottle your beers… here’s what it said:
I enjoy your newsletter a lot, thanks for putting it out there so often. As an enthusiastic home brewer, I learned not to use priming sugar at all, after I struggled with some of the similar problems as you have had (getting too much or too little into the bottle).
Plus, here in Germany, adding sugar into the beer doesn’t sit well with the “Reinheitsgebot” which allows only malt, hops, water and yeast into the brew to be called “rein” (clean, pure, or true to the brewer’s guild).
We home brewers are free to do away with that as we wish, because we only have to satisfy our own taste and maybe that of our friends and families. But using priming sugar isn’t even necessary. What lots of home brewers do here instead is the following:
When the wort is boiling, before adding any hops, take about 6 to 8% (depending on the gravity) of the hot wort out of the pot and fill it into a brake-resistant container that seals well (I use my beer bottles, they can take the heat and can be closed with the caps that are built onto the bottle).
Lay the (closed) bottles on the side for a few minutes, so the top is also being sterilized from the hot wort. We call the taken-off wort “Speise” (food – for the yeast that is)). When the wort bottles are cooled down enough, refrigerate them. In the meantime, proceed with your brewing as usual, adding hops, cooling it down and pitching the yeast.
The day before the brew is finished fermenting (i.e. before you plan to bottle your beer), take out the “Speise” bottles from the refrigerator and let them stand near the fermentation container, eventually warming them to the same temperature as the fermented beer will be the next day.
I use a big filtering fabric bag to first empty the “Speise” into the bottling bucket, then I let the fermented beer filter into the same bucket slowly (so as not to let the beer catch any oxygen. The two mix pretty well when they are the same temperature, stirring is not necessary. Take the filter sack out slowly and start bottling.
The yeast cells that were still in the fermented beer now have enough sugars to eat from the “Speise” to carbonate your beer properly. Plus, the “Reinheitsgebot” is served and no empty sugars were used.
My brew pot allows me to brew 25 liters of beer per batch, so I usually take off 2 liters of ” Speise”. Because the “Speise” is not hopped, I usually add a bit more hops to the remaining 23 liters wort, so I have enough in the whole mix later.
Sometimes, when I brew several beers in succession, I keep the “Speise” labeled to be used with the same batch later.
I am doing this routine for a long time now and never had any problems with bursting bottles or under-carbonated beer. Let me know what you think. Maybe it is worth a try and giving American home brewers a tip on how to ease the carbonation handling a bit too.
Greetings from Germany,
Vera Vallentin-Price
Pretty cool huh?
But this is just…
Imagine brewing your beers using a brewing method with over a dozen techniques like this one to brew beers so good, you’ll stare at your beer like your crush back in school…
That’s what this letter is about… finding better ways to go about brewing your beer…
… but techniques like this are not easy to come by…
If you are like me… maybe you’ve read just about every home brewing book, magazine, forum and the websites that show up on the first page of Google on brewing beer…
… and all of them pretty much tell you to use corn sugar to prime your beers and maybe to venture out trying ‘other sugars’… but none ever mention a priming technique like this one…
If you’ve never heard or tried this method… boy you are missing out!
Not only are you shortchanging the flavor of your beers, but your are overlooking the best practices to improve the drinkability and balance of your beers…
Without balance or drinkability, overwhelming hot alcohol notes will hit your Old Ales and Christmas Ales… They won’t exhibit the sweetness that turns them into nice warming alcohol notes you can sip by the fire…
Gulping down your IPAs will be less than pleasant and may make an otherwise beautiful in-your-face hop flavor seem like you are biting into an old astringent tea bag…
When you get balance and drinkability right…
But that’s just the beginning…
See, I started a brewing newsletter in January 2010 and over the years it quickly grew to get thousands and thousands of fanatic home brew subscribers… I shared many of my tips and in return I also got many tips like the one above to brew better beer…
… I have come across many new ways to improve brewing including:
- How to prime your beers to avoid exploding bottles
- How to Krausen your beer the easy way to mellow out flavors and improve the quality of your beers…
- How to brew when you don’t have enough yeast on brew day… (A much needed technique since most brewers underpitch unknowingly)
- How to brew jet black beers without the roasty flavor of dark bitter malts when using debittered roasted malts is not enough…
- How to brew all your beers with better tasting soft or moderately hard, but low-alkalinity water… including your pitch black imperial stouts!…
- How to add a smooth hop bitterness even when adding high Alpha Acid hops to your boil
- How to brew a malty beer without going through a decoction mash and even shorten your mashing time
- and many more…
The feeling of knowing your beer could be better without any idea of what you are doing wrong sucks!
It makes you feel like you wasted an entire day of brewing and weeks of fermentation and conditioning just to get an ‘ok’ beer…
It leads to making you feel like a failure at brewing…
On the other hand…
When you brew a well balanced, drinkable beer…
When you dry up an IPA yet leave enough maltiness to back up the hop bitterness and you brew it so it tastes the way an IPA is supposed to taste…
When you do that for any beer style you like, then that feels beyond GOOD… especially after a few pints!
It feels good knowing your next batch of beer will turn out exactly how you expect… better…
You can promise your friends you’ll take your home brew to their next party and be confident it will be the best thing they’ve all had…
They brew and ‘hope’ that over the years they’ll brew better beer
Or
They read brewing books, forums, listen to brewing radio shows and ‘hope’ that over the years they’ll brew better beer…
If it feels as though you are skidding down a road of black ice, it’s because you are… the problem here is that the information you come across focuses on basic stuff like WHAT is priming and HOW TO prime…
It focuses on the obvious and what’s already in front of you… it doesn’t let you see the forest through the trees… it doesn’t teach you how to brew better beer…
Knowing techniques like the German method of priming beer, is like having a crane that lifts you up so high above the forest you can see it from the top down… It lets you see your beer as it will turn out in the end… it lets you choose the best path to brew it… it helps you brew better beer…
… and there is only one way I know of to learn techniques like this…
You must talk to advanced brewers from all over the world and learn their techniques to brew better beers which you just don’t get by reading brewing literature from the US…
Trust me… you don’t need to learn a lot of brewing information to brew better beers… just the RIGHT brewing information!
I’ve read just about anything available at the home brew supply shop’s book shelf…
… I’ve spent a number of years in forums, brewing radio shows, conferences
… but unless you have a way to find advanced brewers from around the world to share tips like these with you, you probably won’t find the information I’m sharing with you today anywhere else…
These better brewing techniques have allowed me to find…
Have you ever noticed how tiny little hinges can swing open huge doors? add a tiny little hinge to the door frame and the size and weight of the door goes up dramatically…
Well, the same applies in brewing… tiny little leverage points in your brewing process can increase the flavor of your beer dramatically…
… and it all starts BEFORE you even design the recipe and brewing process of your beer…
Let me tell you a story about design…
You are about to pitch your yeast, but your gravity reading is much lower than expected… what do you do? just add malt extract?
You could… but you’re not brewing better beers…
See, after breaking my 5th hydrometer I decided to brew without… and now brewers ask me… how do you brew without a hydrometer… how do you know if you’ve hit your OG/FG?
My answer: I make sure the beer will turn out how I want it when I design my beer… when I design the recipe and the brewing process, not at the end of the brew day when I’m ready to ferment…
If you wait till then, you are dressing up your beer to be roadkill…
Advanced brewers don’t wait until the end of the mash to make sure their brewing efficiency will give them wort with the right original gravity…
They design great beers before they start brewing and simply follow a plan of attack to make sure the beer turns out exactly how they want it…
They make constant improvements to their brewing process…
That’s what advanced brewing is all about and it’s what I call Mash Control™…
If you are serious about brewing better beer, then you need to really look inside Mash Control™, our advanced home brew training program, which shows you how to brew a well balanced, drinkable beer, and most important… brew with YOUR specific wanted flavors…
This isn’t some kind of re-packaged information product like all the other tutorials other websites are trying to sell… what you’ll learn here, you won’t learn by wasting time on forums, blogs, listening to brewing radio shows or joining any kind of brewing academy…
I personally have sent hundreds of emails and talked with advanced brewers from all over the world… After over two and a half years of research and testing on my own batches of beer I created Mash Control™, the most advanced training program of its kind available to home brewers…
In Mash Control™, I walk you through the same method I use to design a beer… and no, this isn’t just jotting down a recipe and firing up the kettles… there’s a lot more to it than that…
This program is for serious home brewers only…
Here’s What You’ll Learn
- What you need to know about balance, drinkability and flavor of beer to improve your brewing
- Why techniques like dry-hopping are for amateurs and how to really give beers like IPAs the hop flavor and aroma they command
- How to approach brewing and why hitting your OG, FG, IBUs, BU:GU ratios, etc., won’t guarantee your beer will taste good or fit the style…
- A concept I call the Psychology of Brewing and why you need to use this to improve your brewing
- The one mistake keeping you from brewing an award winning beer even if you are using an award winning recipe… and what to do about it
- The one missed step that slots brewers into the amateur category when coming up with recipes and designing their beer
- How a little insight of the malting process can help you plan the right brewing process, and improve the mouthfeel, head formation and everything that affects balance, drinkability and flavor of your beer…
- The two most overlooked components of beer which can cause haze, fermentation problems, and ruin the balance and drinkability of your beers…
- Why following the standard 60 minute single temperature infusion mash for all your beers is wrong… and how you should determine your mash schedule
- How to determine if a protein rest is needed and when you MUST avoid a protein rest
- How malts get their color and flavor and The Malt Flavor Selector MapTM that helps you choose the right grain for your beers
- This method makes it easier to determine what malts to brew with and in what quantities to get more or less of the specific flavors you want…
- How to strategically add or remove ingredients from a recipe to brew a good beer…
- The mistake most brewers make when diacetyl appears to be present in their beers
- Why brewers that don’t do this can’t brew the beers they want… plus an easy and inexpensive way to train your palate…
- This simple works-every-time exercise makes you better able to choose malts for your beer
- The Triangle Test… why you need to do it and how it improves your ability to choose the best malts for your beers
- A quick and dirty method to know your hops so you choose the right ones for different styles of beers
- How to choose the best hop to compliment your malt selection… (and how to avoid choosing ones that clash with your malt selection)
- Why classifying hops by a single characteristic like citrusy or spicy or piney, etc., is wrong and how you should look at hops to better select them
- 7 comparisons you should make to better know your hops so you can choose the best one for your beers
- The sense of smell training for advanced home brewers
- This makes it easy to select your yeast strains
- The advanced yeast flavor discovery technique
- How to easily identify the taste and characteristics of a new yeast strain
- The best beers to brew to get to know your yeast strains
- What in water improves a beer style and why that same water can be detrimental for another style
- The three minerals you need to focus on to improve the flavor of your beers… (Everyone talks about the first two, but few talk about the third one)
- When you learn the two stages of water adjustment, you’ll find it easy to make your water suitable for the style you want to brew…
- Minerals you must avoid to get smooth hop bitterness…
- Why alkalinity in water is detrimental to your beers and how to brew without alkaline water… even if you are brewing jet black stouts!
- The components of beer that affect how beer tastes, how it feels and that can throw off the balance and drinkability of your beer
- The one component of beer that allows you to brew clear beer, and determines how long to condition or mature a beer for… and why certain practices like lautering and sparging may make this same component ruin your beer if done wrong…
- The wrong reason to skip a mash out and the three things you must check before raising the temperature of your mash above 160 °F
- How your ingredients dictate your brewing process to avoid different beer faults
- Possibly the most useful tool you’ll have as an all-grain brewer and how knowing more about it is the key to becoming an advanced brewer
- The different kinds of alcohols your beer will get… the good, the bad and the ugly…
- Three most common mistakes home brewers make that lead to fusel alcohols…
- This component can make the difference between good and bad fermentation… you may risk ruining a batch of beer if you don’t pay attention to this
- The most important mineral you need in your beer… and why some brewers drop the ball on this one when preparing their water…
- Too much of this and your beer will become tannic… too little and your beer will become harsh… I’ll show you how to strike the happy medium of this…
- Why most brewers are dead wrong when it comes to malty sweetness of a beer and how that throws off drinkability of their beers…
- Four ways to dry up a beer… mix and match taking into account what’s covered in the previous modules
- The right and wrong way to go about adding simple sugars to your beer… most brewers do this wrong…
- Why using champagne yeast to drive attenuation can be the wrong choice and what to use instead
- The two most controllable ways to brew a sweet beer plus two more ways you can try if you are adventurous enough…
- Three ways you can balance your sweet beers to avoid a cloying drink…
- Why low carbonation for one beer may be high carbonation for another… plus, how to determine the right level of carbonation…
- How to tell if your beer is overcarbonated due to an infection
- How to turn a ‘hot’ alcohol taste into a smooth aged alcohol taste
- Why beers pick up a harsh flavor and how to avoid it
- Four steps to nail down the source of harshness and turn it into a smooth feel instead
- Two ways to turn an undercarbed bottled beer into a well carbonated beer with a creamy head…
- A common mistake brewers make in their brewing process when substituting malts…
- The three types of haze and how to determine what the right fining agent you should use to clear your beer…
- Why some beers are naturally cloudy and why you should leave them that way…
- The most common mistake brewers make when balancing out the bitterness of their beer
- Why simply boosting alcohol in a beer is wrong and what you should do if you do want a stronger beer…
- Five ways to balance your beers with spicy, sour, fruits or phenolic flavors
- Ingredients to avoid when using dark roasted grains
- Taking the Reinheitsgebot Compliant Priming Technique to the next level with three ways you may not have thought of using this technique…
- How to Krausen your beers and other uses for krausening you probably haven’t read or heard anywhere…
- How to brew jet black beers without the harsh roastiness
- How to brew jet black beers without carbonates in your water… and without jeopardizing your starch to sugar conversion during the mash…
- A quick look at parti-gyle brewing
- The ‘When and How to Add Weird Ingredients Test’
- How to make extracts and add ingredients with fats and lipids without killing your head formation or retention
- Three ways to add or remove diacetyl from your beer… some styles require this to be present while others prohibit it…
- Two ways to get extra smooth bitterness from your hops even when using high alpha acid hops…
- The Reverse Decoction Mash™… how to brew a malty beer without the tedious decoction mash… this even shortens your brew day…
- Decoding the decoction mash to make it simpler and easier and when you must absolutely use it…
I show you how to put together recipes based on the criteria required by different styles of beers…
Here’s the deal…
If you are serious about brewing beer… if you plan on taking brewing as a serious hobby, then you can not go without at least trying out the program…
Our 60 Day All or Nothing 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
Since you’ve read this far and probably want to at least know what’s really inside and make sure I’m not just blowing smoke…I trust you to watch all the modules risk free…
Watch the entire training program which is over 5 hours and 44 minutes of jam-packed advanced brewing information delivered digitally inside our Mash Control™ member’s area…
If within 60 days, you feel (for any reason whatsoever) that the program is not worth at least ten times its value, simply email me personally at Jorge@ mashcontrol.com and I will make sure you get every single penny back no questions asked…
This puts the risk on me and not on you…
Listen… if you’ve read any of my newsletters, you probably know that I don’t really hold back when it comes to sharing the best brewing information I come across…
… and you probably know I am serious when it comes to brewing beer…
When you get this program, not only will you improve your brewing (that’s my true, honest goal here), but you will also help me in my journey to perfect the craft of brewing… to help more brewers brew amazing beers and make craft beer the most popular beer in the world… I can’t do this without your help…
So to make sure this is a bargain, I’m also going to include Mash Control™ 1.0 as a bonus absolutely FREE…
This is a comprehensive method to mastering all grain brewing… this program alone is over 3 hours and 47 minutes delivered digitally inside our Mash Control™ Member’s Area… the program alone sold for $39.95, but you get it for FREE when you order the new and improved Mash Control™ – Advanced Home Brewing Techniques…
- Putting together your first all grain recipe and how to make sure you hit your OG even if your efficiency is lower than expected
- The mash process in a nutshell
- How to choose your grains and read the malt analysis sheet so you know what kind of mash schedule you should follow
- Why you should do a dough-in or protein rest and when you should skip them
- How to manipulate the mash temperature to get a sweet, medium or dry beer
- How time affects your dough-in rest, protein rest and saccharification rest
- How pH affects your mash and how to achieve the proper mash pH
- How to make sure the starch of your malts will convert into sugar
- What enzymes do during the mash
- How to adjust your water to brew anything from light to dark beers
- Minerals that affect pH of beer VS minerals that affect flavor of beer
- How to build up distilled water to mimic the water profile of famous brewing cities around the world
- How to use water to make the bitterness and dryness of your beer stand out
- How to use water to make the malty sweetness of your beer stand out
- How to use the chloride to sulfate ratio of your water to brew different styles of beer
- Why adding salts to water directly is wrong and how you should go about getting minerals into your water to improve the flavor of your beers
- How to determine how much water you need to mash and sparge
- How to calculate the amount of sugars you’ll get from your mash when you do a no sparge, batch sparge or fly sparge
- How to determine your mash efficiency… plus, why focusing on this number is a mistake and what you should focus on instead…
- How to brew all grain tutorial from start to finish and tips along the way
- Why most brewing recipes are incomplete and how you should write your recipes
- How to avoid stuck sparges and how to fix it if you do get one
- The biggest mistake most brewers make when using their brewing equipment
- The mistake most home brewers make when brewing all grain is trying to be accurate… do this instead to brew better beer
- and much, much more…
This program is NOT for the beginner home brewer…
This program is for the home brewer who is serious about brewing the best possible beers and is not afraid to learn about topics most brewers don’t pay attention to, but NEED…
Get your membership to Mash Control™ today and if you are not 100% satisfied with the program within 60 days, then simply let me know and you don’t pay a penny!
That’s how confident I am that your mind will be blown with the many ways you’ll find to improve your brewing using the information you’ll get inside our member’s area.
Cheers!
Jorge
P.S. Until now, only a few select brewers have discovered the advanced home brewing techniques needed to brew a well balanced, drinkable beer with specific wanted flavors…
What you are getting is the most advanced training of its kind available to home brewers which took over two and a half years worth of research, filtering out the best brewing information and discarding the bad… this program cost me over $3,546.17 spent on research to find better ways to brew better beer… This program is EASILY WORTH $300, but if you order today, you will be getting all of this for only $149.97!
Rest assured that the price WON’T stay this low for too long…
With the lifetime membership to Mash Control™, you can lock in this price and get any updates and extra information we add, without paying any extra even when we increase the price…
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