I am not really a big fan of brown ales, but this brew came out better than I expected… just because of that, I will share with you the recipe…

5 Lbs Pilsen Light DME (Extra Light)
10 oz Chocolate Malt (US) 350 L
8 oz Carapils/Dextrine Malt
4 oz Caramel 60 L
3 oz Victory Malt
4.08 AAU Brewer’s Gold Hops (60 min)
5.82 AAU Centennial Hops (20 min)
2.40 AAU Centennial Hops (10 min)
Wyeast 1450 – Denny’s Favorite 50

The Process….

Steeping Grains
Steep specialty grains in 2 gallons of water @ 154 °F for 30 minutes. After steeping remove pot from heat. Once pot is off of the heat, take grain bags and using a strainer let them drain over the pot. I used one quart of hot water to rinse of the grains although a cup is usually enough to rinse them off.

The Boil
After rinsing the grains, top off your pot with 3.5 gallons of water. Turn the heat on and add your DME to the pot. Bring to a boil (stir occasionally and watch out for boilovers) with your lid on. Once your wort is boiling remove lid and make sure you can hold a slow steady rolling boil to add your first set of hops (60 min Brewer’s Gold hops). Start counting down 60 minutes and stir occasionally to avoid any DME from settling at the bottom and scorching with the heat. Once you have 20 minutes left in the boil add your second set of hops (20 min Centennial hops.) Once you have 10 minutes left in the boil add your third and last set of hops (10 min Centennial hops.) Last thing to do during the boil is to add irish moss 5 minutes before the end of the boil.

Cooling Down & Aerating the Wort
After you are done boiling, remove the pot from heat and place into an ice bath until you reach 68 °F. Then you want to ‘splash’ your wort into your fermenting bucket and top off to make 5 gallons. Splash into the pot and bucket back and forth to get oxygen into it. You then want to take a sample of your wort to do a gravity reading and make sure you are within your range.

Pitching Your Yeast And Fermenting The Beer
You want to make a 1 Liter starter for this beer just to get the yeast active. I usually make my yeast starters about 18 to 24 hours before I start to brew. Pitch your yeast and ferment the beer at 64 °F for 3 weeks. No need to transfer to secondary.

Priming & Bottling
After 3 weeks in the primary fermentor you’re ready to bottle. Take 3.5 oz of corn sugar and pour it into a cup with enough water to cover the sugar and maybe a little bit more… Then microwave this for about 2 minutes and let it sit until the liquid becomes clear. You should then have a syrup like liquid which you’ll throw into your bottling bucket and transfer your beer on top of that. Make a swirling motion while transferring to make sure the priming sugar gets mixed in with the beer. Bottle and leave the beer conditioning for 3 weeks.

Like I said, this beer was very drinkable and tasty. That’s coming from me and I don’t really like brown ales. I had a few friends try this beer and give me feedback. They are not professional judges or anything but they were honest about my beer. This beer they liked, the other one, not so much. Alright, there you guys have it… enjoy and don’t forget to leave me a comment… and be sure to check my home page for more how to brew beer videos.

Oh, and Special Thanks to my friend Jennifer S. who helped me with the video for this brew…

    3 replies to "How To Brew An American Brown Ale"

    • Stephen Boland

      Dude, your videos are the BEST!! I like to create my own recipes, but this one sounds so good, I think I will give it a try :o) I do have a question and a tip… my tip is to use a spray bottle with water to spray on your boiling wort if it is threatening a boil over…the water will not hurt anything but will instantly take down that foam! My question concerns adding the dry malt extract…I have never had any luck mixing it into the kettle without getting clumps. I have gotten fed up and started using only the liquid extract because of this. Have you ever tried any other ways to add the DME that might help? Thanks Jorge!

      • Jorge


        ha ha, thanks… the spray bottle tip is great… however, in my case usually the only time a boilover is about to happen to is when I’m not paying attention and by then I’m better off lifting the pot off the heat (I was distracted talking to my friend helping me shoot the video.) I tend to stick around and move the foam to the side and prevent it that way instead since that is what causes the wort to rise to begin with… great tip though…

        As far as clumps… on the wort it’s impossible unless you add the DME once the water is boiling (and you’ll still get some clumps although less). Also, I stir the DME as I pour it which minimizes the clumps, but it’s just the nature of the beast. You can also divide your malt extract and do late additions. So instead of adding a full 5 or 6 pounds of DME, you can add say 3 or 4 lbs at the beginning of the boil, add your hops and what not and then add Liquid malt extract 15 minutes before the end of the boil. The clumps haven’t really bothered me so to be honest I don’t know if my answers will help, but I’ll be thinking of other ways from now on so thanks for the question and the comment…

    • […] beer and it’s the way to go if you are shooting for a malty beer. So next time you want to brew a brown ale or another style of beer that’s known to be malty, try using less priming sugar than the […]

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