After a few long weeks, I’ve managed to build my Kegerator and keg my first beer!!
I took the opportunity to do a tasting on my Oatmeal Cookie Ale and well share some tips on building a Kegerator… here’s what I used…
Parts Needed For The Kegerator Collar
2X6 Pine Wood
2X8 Red Oak
Red Oak Laminate
Gusset Angle Brackets (4)
Brass Bolts (12)
Hex Nuts (12)
Wood Screws (16)
Minwax Pre-stain Wood Conditioner
Minwax Glossy Black Stain
Total Cost ~ $190 (I gotta dig around for the receipt, but I spent just under $200)
Tips on building the kegerator
I’m not a carpenter nor do I have much experience with woodworking, but luckily my father was there to guide me and teach me some cool tricks…
First off, Pine Wood is not straight… I swear my cuts were perfect, yet the collar was raised about 2-3″ off one corner… so I made this weird cut on the right 2×6 so I could flip the front 2×6 slightly backward on the top and that made the collar sit level with the chest freezer… (You can see the cut in the video at minute 6:17)
So tip #1 – Don’t worry about your cuts being perfect, worry about the collar sitting level with the freezer so it makes a good seal…
I put together the collar based on an article on BYO and several forum postings… my father however made me put laminate on top of the collar… he said that would make the cover seal on the collar better… I didn’t think it was necessary at first, but not only was he right, it made the collar look 10X nicer!
The only problem I ran into while putting the laminate was that the cut I made to the inside frame, while it made the collar sit level on the bottom, it made the top a bit crooked… most pinewood has a curvature on it…
So when you go buy your pine wood, you don’t necessarily have to look for the straight frames (you won’t really find them)… instead find one that has straight sections long enough for your cuts… On the picture to the left I show how I split my frame by sections and as long as those sections were straight enough I got the wood…
So that’s Tip #2 – Choose pine wood by checking for straight sections that measure the size you need to build your frame (inner collar)
Last… sanding down the wood… I got smacked in the head for not sanding in the direction of the wood grain, but fortunately it was the pine and not the red oak… however, the real tip here is to take the time to sand down the wood before staining… in fact even after you slap on the wood conditioner, you want to sand down any bubbles that form from the conditioner…
I used a piece of cardboard and used that instead of sandpaper… it made the surface pretty smooth and that made the gloss from the stain stand out, which leads me into tip #3
Tip #3 – When you stain your wood, do thin layers to avoid running stain… it takes longer, but it makes it look really smooth and the glossy stands out… on the last coat use long strokes in one direction to avoid leaving brush marks…
I guess I have one more… as far as drilling the holes for the shanks, I was told to use 1″ forstner drill bit which is about all you can find at Home Depot… however, that makes you rely on tightening up you shanks really well to avoid a wobbly faucet… that may not be a big deal at first, but with time you’ll need to re-tighten it periodically…
I went ahead and visited a local woodworking specialty store and they had the right size 15/16″… It was like $12 bucks… well worth it!
So there you have it… enjoy!